The picture seduced me. What looked like a Spanish castle rose from a grove of lush tropical greenery. A massive pool stretched across the foreground, beckoning me to plunge into its vibrant blue water. 

“Is this heaven?” I wondered. No, it’s Florida. Specifically, it’s the Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables, “The City Beautiful.” In the spring of 2023, my cousin’s husband had tagged me in their vacation photo, knowing this fish would take the bait. Come hell or high water (hopefully the latter), I had to go. Somehow.

Thus inspired, I waited for our chance to soak in those waters. Due to kids, work, and looming college tuitions, I assumed such a trip would be years in the making. But a couple months later, one kid got into a sleepaway academic camp, and as my husband quipped “Why have one kid when we can have none?” So we found off-season summer discounted rates, sent the other kid to her grandparents, then boarded a plane to Miami. Just the two of us. 

My jaw dropped as our Uber approached this magnificent 1926 resort. With its Spanish and Venetian architecture and Moorish tower, it was even more beautiful than my cousins’ tempting photos. And the pool… oh my goodness. At 225 by 150 feet, and with a volume of 600,000 gallons, it is the largest hotel pool in the continental US, despite being almost 100 years old. Romanesque statues line the long edge, permanent spectators to generations of swimmers. Cafe tables, lounge chairs, and luxury cabanas encircle the pristine water, enticing one to spend the entire day right here in these lush, historic surroundings, even in winter, as the pool is heated to 80F. 

And what about that history? George Merrick, Florida land developer, was the mad genius behind the construction of the opulent Biltmore and Coral Gables, the nation’s first planned community. His goal: to create a stylish and stately suburb and a luxury hotel to attract and entertain potential buyers. He succeeded, yet he had to sell his share to his partner in early 1929.

The Biltmore has survived numerous challenges over the past 99 years, starting with the deadliest tropical storm in U.S. history that didn’t become a hurricane! In 1925, shortly after the hotel’s world famous grand opening, the high winds and torrential rain didn’t damage the hotel, which became a refuge for 2000 displaced people. But it caused millions of dollars in property damage and ended the Florida building boom. 

Then, of course, the stock market crashed in October 1929. Developers and hoteliers had to get inventive to stay afloat.

During the 1930s, the Biltmore hosted weekly swimming shows to promote the resort and “The City Beautiful.” On Sunday afternoons, crowds of up to 3,000 would pay to be amazed by synchronized swimming shows, speed swimming, diving, and gator wrestling. Gator wrestling!! Performers included famous swimmers of the day like Esther Williams, Johnny Weissmuller, and four-year-old Jackie Ott, “The Aquatot,” whose feats would likely shock and scare modern viewers! The little guy would dive from the Biltmore’s 85-foot diving platform! The image freaks me out. He was a child, and the pool is only 8 feet deep! I’m very thankful for modern child protection and safety laws. People of the time loved cheering him on though, and Ott idolized Weissmuller, who was a fun playmate for his young co-star.

Jackie Ott and Johnny Weissmuller at the Venetian Pool. Coral Gables, Florida. http://dpanther.fiu.edu/dpService/dpPurlService/purl/FI12060915/00001. Accessed: May 6, 2025. Public domain.
Pin-up Photo of Esther Williams. Yank: The Army Weekly. October 12, 1945. Public domain.

FIN FACT:
Both Esther Williams (1921-2013) and Johnny Weissmuller (1904-1984) are honored in the International Swimming Hall of Fame and on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame, having first won fans’ admiration through their swimming accomplishments, and then through their movie performances. 
Williams, who set national records in speed swimming, became one of the most influential figures in synchronized swimming, and her story will be featured when I profile her namesake pool. The “Million Dollar Mermaid” deserves her own spotlight!
Weissmuller was pretty much the Michael Phelps of the first half of the 20th century, winning five Olympic golds (three in Paris 1924 and two in Amsterdam 1928) and 52 US national championship races. He also set 67 world records! 
But his impressive swimming stats don’t stop there. When he swam for the prestigious Illinois Athletic Club, he worked as a beach lifeguard, saving numerous lives. Most impressively, while training for the 1927 Chicago River Marathon (a 3.2km openwater race which he won,) he rescued 11 people from a capsized excursion boat on Lake Michigan. 
Imagine arriving at the Biltmore, signing up for swim lessons, and having him as your instructor! That’s the job he held while also performing there, before landing a contract with MGM, where he played the title role in 12 “Tarzan” movies. 

During WWII, the Biltmore served the US as a military hospital. Afterward, it became a Veterans Administration hospital until it closed in 1968, leaving the palatial and once-swanky building vacant and deteriorating, a ghost of its former grandeur. Fortunately, renovations finally began in 1983, leading to a grand opening as a four-star resort in 1987, but hope and success were short lived, as it closed again in 1990. Then, in 1992, the new owner, Seaway Hotels, began extensive renovations, added a luxurious spa and modern fitness center, and restored the Donald Ross golf course. 

The result is the gorgeous hotel, pool, and grounds we have today! I felt so lucky to have four days to sleep, eat, and swim here! Each morning, I swam laps past the statues, along the long, slightly angled side, then did the last quarter of my two-mile workout along the 50-yard section. On the first day, I didn’t yet know the distances, so I set my Fenix S5 watch for openwater, and the resulting image looks like a three year old’s coloring. The scribbles notwithstanding, the swim experience felt smooth and free, like a crystal clear lake, but with extra bells and whistles, like gourmet poolside breakfast and freshly brewed coffee! 

As with each of our vacations, I came away with tips and ideas for anyone traveling to this must-swim hotel. 

First of all, swim early to avoid the summer sun. 

Secondly, do try the hotel restaurants! There is a reason that this hotel has a culinary academy for adults and kids. The food is spectacular! It does cost a bit, however, so if you want to save money, you could do what we did: Buy food at a Cuban grocery store in Little Havana, which we stored in our room fridge and enjoyed for lunch and snacks.

Also, Biltmore pool access is limited to members and hotel guests. There are no day passes unless you book one of the lovely cabanas. They are beautifully furnished, and therefore, they are pricey, starting at $240. Although we could have stayed off-property and rented a cabana, because I planned on swimming and lounging daily by this spectacular pool, it made more sense for us to stay in this gorgeous hotel and savor all it has to offer by finding discounted off-season rates. We did, however, end up “paying” for this choice in sweat; Florida summers are hot hot hot! But the fun we had was worth the heat! 

Finally, make your reservations! The Biltmore Miami-Coral Gables should be on every swimmer’s bucket list.

Coming soon is another gigantic Coral Gables pool, so stay tuned! 

POOL STATS:
Year built: 1926
Dimensions: 225 ft by 150 ft
Volume: 600,000 gallons
Day passes: No. Unless you rent a cabana, you must be a member or hotel guest.
Cabanas: $240-$700, depending on season and party size
Daybeds: Available for rental for hotel guests who seek a bit of poolside privacy
Year-round: Yes
Heated: Yes (80F/26.7C)
Food: Delicious

Location: 

The Biltmore Hotel
1200 Anastasia Avenue 
Coral Gables, FL 33134
1-855-311-6903
https://biltmorehotel.com/

References: 

https://biltmorehotel.com/
https://www.johnnyweissmuller.com/athletic-career/
https://www.olympics.com/en/news/olympic-history-3-9-june-johnny-weissmuller-17-year-world-record
https://www.palmbeachpost.com/story/lifestyle/travel/2014/05/20/dip-into-history-summer-savings/7571436007/
https://thepointsguy.com/2015/05/best-hotel-pools/
https://usabynumbers.com/largest-swimming-pools-in-the-us/
https://vault.si.com/vault/1994/02/14/off-the-deep-end-seduced-by-the-sparkle-of-those-turquoise-waters-america-has-fallen-head-over-heels-in-love-with-the-swimming-pool
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miami_Biltmore_Hotel
http://dpanther.fiu.edu/dpService/dpPurlService/purl/FI12060915/00001
https://www.loc.gov/item/2007683546/