“Free towels!” Twinkling brown eyes revealed delight in a small victory for this long-time loyal member of the venerable New Orleans Athletic Club. More than thirty years ago, they were and still are his reward, along with massages, for continuing his membership through two years of renovations and upgrades that reflect changed social norms and the diverse society of the Big Easy.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. 

What put this pool on my must-swim list? The New Orleans Athletic Club is the third oldest club of its kind in the United States! So when my husband found out that he’d be presenting his research at a conference in NOLA, I had to go. As a warm-up, I dove into the deep history of the NOAC.

Originating in 1872 as the Independent Gymnastic Club in the backyard of its founder J.C. Aleix, inclement weather soon pushed the members to find an indoor location. (Who wants to lift weights in a downpour, do calisthenics in the summer sun, or climb on metal equipment in a thunderstorm??) Thus, the club moved to a vacant building at Rampart and Bienville, and in 1890 to an annex of a stately mansion on Rampart. By 1920, however, conditions at this location had deteriorated, and a new facility was necessary, so the 600 members were pretty hyped when ground was broken in 1929 for an elegant new building. Here, for the next 62 years, white men would work out, hang out, and network, in today’s terms, free from the pressures of outside influences. In fact, staff were strictly instructed not to forward calls to members from their wives!   

FIN FACT:
According to the original 1872 constitution, the club was never to exceed 14 members! 

FIN FACT:
The NOAC chose black and gold as club colors way back in 1872, 95 years before the Saints did the same.

Meanwhile, the club earned a reputation for athletic prowess, as many champions played and were made here. In the early days, John L. Sullivan, the last bare-knuckle and first gloved world heavyweight boxing champion, prepped for his 1892 world championship fight at the NOAC. Swimming and film superstar Johnny Weismuller swam in the gorgeous pool, and much later, Kareem Abdul Jabbar played basketball and coached kids on the NOAC court. Movie stars, entertainers, and politicians tried their skills here as well, including Clark Gable, Bob Hope, Alec Baldwin, Kate Hudson and many more. Kevin Costner shot baskets, Harry Connick Jr. boxed, and former Louisiana Governor Huey Long spent time here. 

But time and usage have a price. By 1991, the 62-year-old building needed significant repairs, and aging equipment needed to be replaced, yet membership had dropped. Then Bill More, a local attorney, purchased and saved the NOAC, yanking it back from the precipice of closure. How? The club needed more members, so he took a hard stance. He declared that women would be admitted! Despite initial dissent in the community, More then opened membership to anyone who could pay the dues, offering perks (such as towels and massages) to those original members who would remain through the long process of adaptation and enhancement.

FIN FACT:
Naked swimming was the rule until women were admitted in 1991. Apparently, this 62-year-old habit was hard to break at first, as men occasionally forgot to don their trunks, creating some rather awkward scenarios with newly-admitted female swimmers.

Today, this private club retains its historical ambiance while offering four floors of modern equipment, where dark wood paneling, intricate tile work, and high ceilings exude 1920s opulence. Ever enjoy a treadmill run under the sparkling light of a crystal chandelier? What about breaking a sweat on a machine by a giant fireplace, or lifting in a restored gymnasium beside a “For Display Only” section of 100+ year old weights? 

How about swimming laps in the 20-yard saltwater pool with a marble deck, surrounded by columns and an upper balcony with wrought-iron railings? And then going for drinks at the club’s very own very luxurious bar? Oh, and after your sauna and shower you can peruse antique books in the plush, warmly lit library.   

That’s what I did on this vacay. Three times!

From the very start, the NOAC staff were enthusiastic, helpful guides. The week before the trip, I called the NOAC and asked about day passes and hours. The staff member told me all I needed to know and then texted me a daily schedule. 

Upon arrival, I eagerly took the offer of a facility tour, ending at the pool, of course. Exhilaration and wonder flavored that first swim as the refreshing saltwater caressed my skin. So agog was I at the surroundings that I hadn’t seen the prominently-placed rules. I didn’t know that each lane is the white space BETWEEN the black tile lines, which serve as sunken lane ropes. As a result, I nearly collided with another swimmer! Flustered, I immediately apologized, and much to my relief, he forgave me for my newbie mistake.

I resumed my workout, only to be caught off-guard by a sharp tap-a-ta-tap-a-ta-tap-a-ta from above. I finished my length, then looked up and across the pool, where I spotted the source. On the balcony, a boxer beat a punching bag while her coach gave pointers!

As I left for a lunch date with my husband, the staff member who had led me on the tour encouraged me to return in the evening for a totally different vibe. Intrigued, we followed his advice.

Pools are sexy at night, and the NOAC pool did not disappoint. Like a mythical siren, the electric blue water captivates and entices. But rather than lulling the senses, its vibrance invigorates, stimulating sensuality and lucid serenity, an awareness of sensations and stories. A truly magical experience giving respite yet reflecting the energy and intrigue of New Orleans. 

And then, for an A+ night, you can do what we did: Savor a glass of wine at the bar before heading to Preservation Hall for an amazing jazz performance! 

But I digress. Back to the pool! 

I’d just finished my third swim at the NOAC when I noticed the older gentleman standing on the marble deck. 

With hands on his towel-clad hips, he surveyed the 94 year-old pool. At first, I thought I’d again accidentally violated a club rule or expectation. But then I detected a hint of a smile. 

Pride. He was proud of this place.

So I introduced myself as an outsider, a lover of historic pools, and he began to talk, his gentle charisma drawing me in like a child eager to hear her grandfather’s stories. He spoke of the club’s simple origins, the radical and necessary changes, and how once upon a time, a little more than thirty years ago, he had an offer he couldn’t refuse: Free towels.

POOL STATS:
Built: 1929
Length: 20 yards
Lanes: 5 (one shortened by steps in the shallow end)
Temperature: 83F
Water: saltwater
Depth: 3 to 7 feet
Day pass: $20. You will be asked to show your hotel key.
Children: Not permitted.
Unique features: Fountains at each end, cool lighting at night

REFERENCES:
https://neworleansathleticclub.com/dive-into-history/
https://gardenandgun.com/articles/our-kind-of-place-new-orleans-athletic-club/
https://www.nola.com/entertainment_life/the-saints-weren-t-the-first-to-don-black-and-gold-the-early-new-orleans/article_98a5513e-f91e-11eb-9f98-9b8c0511c3a8.html
https://neworleansathleticclub.com/about-noac/noac-history/