September 8-9, 1954:

Your arms churn through the frigid, black depths of Lake Ontario like a propeller, strong, efficient, and devoid of sensation. Your legs… you haven’t felt them for hours…You lift your head and search your surroundings … Where is everyone?… Ahead, a lone light appears, dimly illuminating your boat’s hull… There’s Coach Ryder… and quickly disappears behind a heightening liquid wall… Up, down… Your body rises and falls with each swell… You turn from the inky tumult to breathe, glimpsing a sky equally as dark… Another wave, a stronger one, sends you briefly airborne before tossing you down into the icy turbulence… Must keep going… You pull yourself to the surface, inhale, and again spot that light, which seems smaller now, farther from your exhausted body…  Coach tricked me… Anger sparks determination and you resume stroking forward though 5-meter swells while fighting blood-sucking lamprey eels. Night turns to day… when a flotilla of fans surrounds you, cheering you on. Fueled by corn syrup, baby cereal, and lemon water, you continue your quest… And the sun sets, again leaving you in an obsidian expanse of lake and sky.

Where am I?… A wave lifts you for the thousandth time, and for the thousandth time you raise your eyes, expecting more of the same– night. But a line of light bisects the black. Not sunrise, but Sunnyside Amusement Park. Beaconed by the bright rides, and emboldened by its proximity, you power toward the shore.

You won’t recall the immediate aftermath of your history-making swim: the roaring crowd of 250,000 stretched along the lakefront, the innumerable flashing cameras of journalists and spectators as you stroke into the shallows and finally come to rest on the rocky jetty at Sunnyside.

But your country will remember. And you will remember your country, for when a reporter asks Why did you do this, you will answer I did it for Canada.

…Who am I? You are 16-year-old Marilyn Bell, the first person to swim across Lake Ontario. Starting in Youngstown, NY, you beat two seasoned distance swimmers, Winnie Roach, a fellow Canadian, and Florence Chadwick, an American, neither of whom completed the 51.2 km course. Due to currents, you actually covered a much greater distance during your 20 hour, 59 minute marathon swim. You also received a $10,000 prize from the Canadian National Exhibition, even though you hadn’t officially entered the competition. But most importantly, you captured the love of your nation, and the admiration of female athletes worldwide. 

Today, little is left of this former urban beach resort; only three structures survived the destruction of Toronto’s waterfront: the Palais Royale dance pavilion, Sunnyside Bathing Pavilion, and the Sunnyside Gus Ryder Pool. My husband, a former Toronto resident, calls them hidden treasures. Gems in a sliver of green between a concrete jungle and wild open water. 

Marilyn Bell and Gus Ryder after she swam the English Channel

The Bathing Pavilion was built in 1921 to accommodate the throngs of Torontonians seeking summer respite in Lake Ontario. (The designer, Alfred Chapman, had also designed buildings at the Canadian National Exhibition.) In 1922, the Pavilion had more than 300,000 visitors! However, the chilly water temperature soon convinced the city to build an adjacent pool. Not just any pool. When built in 1925, Sunnyside was the largest outdoor pool in the world, accommodating 2,000 swimmers in its enormous 23-meter by 91-meter basin. No wonder locals called it “The Tank!” The oval oasis became so popular that the city dedicated a streetcar line for it. Families from all over the city would ride the “Bathing Car” to and from Sunnyside! 

With the “Bathing Car” no longer an option, we rode in “Stickers Two,” our trusty SUV, and promptly got ensnared on the Gardiner. 

We arrived at opening (11 a.m.), already too late to snag one of the four lanes with black lines and lane ropes. By the time we’d donned our caps, twenty-one lap swimmers had claimed their spots. Not to worry, there’s plenty of room in this crystal-clear oasis. Daughter and I plunged into the unlined deep end and began our 2,760-meter workout, occasionally lifting our heads to sight as we do in open water. 

Patrons of diverse backgrounds eagerly shared their love of this now 100-year-old treasure. A young woman who had immigrated to Canada from Poland as a child, recounted climbing the fence at night for starlit dips with friends. Others spoke of family picnics and swim team, while a long-time patron complained of changes. A lady who’d learned to swim here in the 1950s grumbled that the locker rooms weren’t as clean as they used to be, yet here she was, smiling as her grandchildren played Marco Polo. My son soon joined the splashy chaos, their happy shouts catching my ear even as I reached the opposite end. Generations have found joy, peace, and connection here.

So did we, and I longed to return…

July 4, 2025: 

Exactly one trip-around-the-sun later, we returned to Sunnyside Gus Ryder Pool during its 100th anniversary year. This time, we chased Marilyn Bell. Before plunging once more into its cold, clear water, we headed east on an urban hike, with me ready for that night’s Blue Jays game in the only blue (and red and yellow) outfit I’d packed: a Wonder Woman dress. Soon, just past the pool parking lots, I found what I’d missed a year prior – her finishing point. Nestled among flowers and rocks in Budapest Park is the placard that marked her arrival on the shore of Lake Ontario. Seventy-one years ago this September, an exhausted Marilyn had crawled onto the jetty that stretched in front of me, a true aquatic wonder woman.  

Then we walked a mile to the park named in her honor, past the Palais Royale (the newly-restored dance hall), the swanky Boulevard yacht and tennis club, and the similarly revered Argonaut Rowing Club. Finally, two miles from the Canadian National Exhibition grounds (Marilyn’s planned finish), we spotted her sign “Marilyn Bell Park” amidst trees and grass, with the lake to our right and runners, cyclists, games, and picnics all around.  

Back at the pool, like last year, we were doused by showers as we left the locker room. You can’t avoid them at Sunnyside Gus Ryder, which I appreciate; too few people here in North America bathe before swimming. (When lap swimming, I sometimes smell others’ cologne or deodorant before I see them!)

Again, after my all-too-brief, avoid-rush-hour swim, I chatted with several ladies who would have been babies when Marilyn Bell completed her historic swim. We bobbed, floated, and egg-beatered* as they shared their experiences and love of this special pool. One described it as “the best bargain in the city.” She enthused: “It’s free, and if you happen to get a locker that spits your quarter back at you, it’s SUPER free!” They also appreciate the space – a hot summer commodity in Canada’s most populous city – describing how they always have room to swim in the Tank, where lane ropes remain in place all day for lap swimmers like us.   

And that’s what Marilyn Bell Park and Sunnyside Gus Ryder Pool are: treasured and storied green and aquatic spaces. Their namesakes, a certain wonder woman and her beloved coach, would be pleased.  

*Artistic swimming term for kicking in a circular fashion while vertical. Try it while holding a 10-lb brick and smiling!

Location: 
1755 Lake Shore Blvd W
Toronto, ON M6S 5A3
Canada
416-392-7915
https://www.toronto.ca/explore-enjoy/parks-recreation/places-spaces/parks-and-recreation-facilities/location/?id=433&title=Sunnyside-Gus-Ryder-Outdoor-Pool

References:
McAllister, R. (1954). Swim to glory; the story of Marilyn Bell and the Lakeshore Swimming Club. McClelland and Stewart. 
https://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca/en/article/bell-marilyn
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0kB8OdMm5g
https://www.wsj.com/articles/a-swimming-hero-relearns-how-to-swim-1455576353
https://www.thepeterboroughexaminer.com/sports/marilyn-bell-has-no-recollection-of-her-historic-swim/article_a1fa4b93-26e5-5ed4-97d0-1d417c204ba8.html?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIU30s3yGpY
https://www.cbc.ca/player/play/video/1.1673118
https://urbaneer.com/blog/dive_into_the_history_of_sunnyside_gus_ryder_pool_torontohttps://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palais_Royale#:~:text=Palais%20Royale%20is%20a%20dance,’big%20band’%20jazz%20bands.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunnyside_Bathing_Pavilion
https://www.etobicokehistorical.com/new-torontorsquos-gus-ryder-and-his-lakeshore-swim-club-helped-more-than-200000-children-learn-to-swim.html
https://www.heritagetoronto.org/explore/toronto_harbour_waterfront_history/marilyn-bell-park-history/
https://halloffamers.sportshall.ca/#gus_ryder

2 responses to “Sunnyside Gus Ryder Pool and Marilyn Bell Park: Toronto, ON, Canada”

  1. Patrick Brundage Avatar
    Patrick Brundage

    You write such rich history combined with your present experience; just a brilliant read. I have only swum in that pool once, but I agree with the comments of the patrons you met that it is a treasure for the city.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Patrick! Wow! Thank you for reading, and I’m so very glad you like my writing!!! Your message makes my heart smile. Such fun that you swam there too!

      Like

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