Through the oval window, fluffy white clouds parted to reveal an expanse of blue ocean, reaching through the dawning sky toward a yellow horizon. 

In my dreams, folks. 

Crammed into a middle row of a packed transatlantic flight, I clung to this image, readjusted my sleep mask, and burrowed into my upright seat, hoping to catch some winks or at least soothe my aching neck.

Last summer’s trip had been our first foray across the pond to visit family in Reading, UK, and on our return flight, my thoughts drifted to swimming. I remembered the charming and historic Thames Lido, where my daughter and I had worked out and dined in high fashion during our stay. 

This gorgeous 25-yard pool, formerly known as King’s Meadow, opened in 1902 as a ladies’ bath. According to the website, it “is believed to be the oldest surviving outdoor municipal pool of the early Edwardian era.”

But it almost didn’t survive! From the 1960s to the 1990s, the UK lost two thirds of the 300 lidos built in the early 20th century. 

Kings Meadow barely escaped the same fate. After serving several generations of women, it closed in 1974, and fell into significant disrepair. Fortunately, in 2004, it received a Grade II listing and protected status as a special building of interest by the National Heritage List for England. Lengthy renovations commenced in 2013, and it reopened to the public in 2017 as Thames Lido! 

Now, everyone is welcome here, not just the ladies, and kids can swim during certain hours. Moreover, the full Thames Lido experience includes not only the pool and hot tub, but also the sauna, cold shower, spa services, and what I would describe as a five-star poolside tapas bar and full-scale indoor restaurant. 

Everything about this swim was lovely, from the pool itself to the friendly and knowledgeable staff and the multicolored Edwardian building that surrounds the pool. An interesting structural aspect is the lack of windows facing the area outside the complex. When I asked about this curious omission, staff informed me that ladies had needed their privacy to bathe. Also, the pool water flows over raised infinity edges, which deter jumping or diving and therefore add to the calm spa atmosphere. 

At first toe-dip, the 25C water felt a wee bit chilly to us warm water swimmers. Fortunately, the required pre-swim shower in the outdoor enclosed wood stalls was not. Daughter pulled the brightly striped curtain closed, I tugged the rope, and warm water streamed down our faces and bodies from the rain-shower head. 

After a toasty rinse, we found the cool pool water perfect for lap swimming. I finished 3250 yards, and my daughter did close to that, adding some synchro laps at the end as she always does. 

With no lane ropes or black lines, we used the blue floor tiles to guide us, as they are large and therefore relatively easy to follow. And after one head-on collision, fortunately with each other rather than unsuspecting strangers, we remained vigilant and avoided any other whacks. Other lap swimmers seemed similarly watchful and respectful of each other. During our subsequent poolside meal, I noticed no other whacks among the 10-12 lap swimmers. 

A post-swim, pre-dinner stint in the adjacent hot tub was a must, of course. Although I didn’t get the steamy details, the temperature felt just right, and the water looked as clear as the pool. The only reasons we exited were the arrival of our drinks at our table, and we of course were ravenous. After all, we’re swimmers! 

Also, I must comment on the soft robes, which of course we did not turn down. They were totally worth the extra five pound fee. Because why not celebrate a lovely afternoon swim by wrapping oneself in a luxurious robe and then clinking glasses of mint cucumber lime spritzer? 

Which brings me to the meal. Oh my goodness, what a treat. Daughter, a gifted gourmet and chef-dietitian in training, still reminisces about the fancy drinks, scrumptious cheeses, and delectable spreads on freshly-baked sourdough flatbread.

We gals are living the Swim History Girl life!

FIN FACTS:
Pool length: 24.68 m
Heated: Yes. Pool is heated to 24-26C and is open all year. 
Storage: We checked our stuff at the desk, where they stored it while we swam.
Food: Yes. It’s delicious. Treat yourself.

Location:
Thames Lido
Napier Road
Reading, RG1 8FR

Contact:
Reservations & Enquiries: 01182 070 640
Email: spa@thameslido.com

Resources:
https://www.thameslido.com/
https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1391153